meadow, hedge and small wood
Soil types, restoration notes, grazing guides, and links to useful websites — a working reference for our land journey.
01 — Foundation
Before doing anything, it pays to know what you're working with. Soil type, existing plant diversity, and land history will shape every decision that follows.
The Soilscapes tool (developed by Cranfield University, sponsored by DEFRA) gives a useful starting map before a site visit or soil sample. Our land is closer to type 18 than type 8, but the maps provide a good general orientation.
Type 18 — our soil. Detailed soilscape viewer via Cranfield/DEFRA. landis.org.uk/soilscapes
Multi-Agency Geographic Information for the Countryside. Go to Layers → Habitat → Priority Meadows. magic.defra.gov.uk
Our own LiDAR and Google Earth land-area maps showing field boundaries, acreage, and terrain detail.
Four free methods you can do today — no lab required. Results will tell you about compaction, drainage, carbon content, and biological health.
Dig a hole. Look at structure, root behaviour, and whether the soil holds water. Count your worms — they're a reliable indicator of biological condition.
Dry a marble-sized soil clump, drop it in clean water. The longer it stays intact, the more carbon it contains. Repeat across the farm for consistency.
Pour water on the soil and time how long it takes to absorb. Water sitting on the surface indicates compaction. Aim for the soil to act as a sponge.
Further reading: Soil Association — 4 free soil tests | AHDB Soil Health Scorecard
Before making any drastic interventions, understand what's already there. Fields that have been overgrazing or frequently mown can suppress wildflowers without eliminating them — simply relaxing for 6–8 weeks in summer may reveal unexpected diversity.
"If lots of flowers suddenly appear, there's not much to do other than get the grazing and mowing right."
— Sue Everett, Moor Meadows
Key questions: What grasses and plants are present (ideally surveyed late June)? Has the land been fertilised, weedkilled, or resown with agricultural varieties? What's the grazing history? Consult a local ecologist or wildlife trust before significant interventions.
↑ back to top02 — Creation
The goal is to gently increase existing diversity — finding what's already present and building on it — rather than ploughing and reseeding from scratch.
The approach differs significantly depending on your starting point. Grassland that's been "improved" (fertilised, weedkilled, resown) may have no viable seed bank and need seed introduction. Arable conversion involves different timescales and challenges.
See also: Plantlife — Supporting Farmers to Access Funding for Grassland Restoration and the Planting for Pollinators — Northern UK Flower-Rich Meadow Recommendations PDF (Tanya St. Pierre, Cumbria Wildlife Trust).
Yellow rattle is the critical first step — it parasitises coarse grasses, weakening their dominance and creating space for wildflowers to establish. We've bought 50 plugs (2 × £50) and will fence off approximately ¼ acre to protect them.
Fence off a small area (~¼ acre). Plant yellow rattle plugs. Mob graze the rest for 1–2 days, then leave 21+ days to rest.
Collect yellow rattle seed ourselves and spread to more of the field. After a cattle trample in an early spring, consider introducing additional meadow seed.
Rattle spreads incrementally. Avoid muck spreading — let the livestock do that work for us, and maintain no-fertiliser policy.
Useful video: How to Create a Meadow — Matt Pitts (YouTube) | Make Your Own Mini Meadow (Podcast)
Clay soils retain moisture and nutrients well but suffer from compaction, which impedes root penetration. Soil high in nitrogen or phosphate from past fertilising will take time to restore — repeated cropping off the grass with no added fertiliser for at least five years is usually advised before further seed introduction.
03 — Management
How livestock are managed is as important as what's planted. The aim is to use animals as natural regenerators — building soil health rather than depleting it.
Mob grazing places high livestock density on a paddock for a short period, then leaves it to rest for a long time — typically 30+ days. The key principle: graze a third, trample a third, leave a third.
Livestock eat one third of the sward for nutrition.
Grass is trampled into the soil, feeding microorganisms and building organic matter.
Standing grass acts as a solar panel — capturing energy and allowing faster regrowth. Protects soil moisture in drought.
Further reading: Plantlife — Mob Grazing for Diversity | FWI — Holistic Grazing Benefits
Research shows that grazing at 9–12cm supports more than twice the number of larger insects compared to grazing at 6–9cm. Leaving grass to grow longer before grazing also builds deeper root systems — feeding more carbon and sugars to soil organisms.
"Well-managed livestock are earth's natural regenerators. When you regenerate soil, the entire ecosystem works more effectively. Wealth starts with the soil."
"Green plants give away between 20–50% of the carbon and sugars they convert from sunshine and push them down to the soil food web. Herbivores take 10% of what they eat to grow — 90% is returned."
— James Rebanks, @herdyshepherd1
For larger meadows, the traditional management cycle works well — and with some adjustments, supports high wildflower diversity alongside productive hay.
Remove livestock by end of February. Meadow "shut up" through spring to allow wildflowers to bloom and set seed.
Cut for hay mid-July to September depending on weather and species. Ted daily to dry. Leave unmown margins for insects.
Aftermath grazing — livestock trample seeds into ground, eat down grass before winter. Remove if very wet to avoid poaching.
Rule of thumb: one acre yields approx 2 tonnes / 40–45 small bales of hay. Current prices circa £4.50–5.50 per small bale, £38–56 per round bale.
↑ back to top04 — Structure
Trees and hedges are not separate from the meadow — they're integral to it. Shelter, biodiversity corridors, soil stability, livestock health, and carbon all improve when trees re-enter the farmed landscape.
We've secured a grant for planting a hedge (and wild cherry trees) along the barbed wire fence line separating the wet bottom end of the field — planned for next autumn/winter.
Three farmers at different stages of bringing trees into their farmed landscapes share their motivations, methods, and results — a compelling picture of what's possible.
Several funding streams exist specifically for grassland restoration and agroforestry. The Farming in Protected Landscapes programme has been particularly active in supporting projects like ours.
↑ back to top05 — Going Further
For farmers wanting to go deeper — networks, events, conferences, and practical next steps including fencing options and land economics.
We need approximately 100–150 metres of temporary stock fencing to protect the yellow rattle plug area (diagonal from the new gateway). Options range from standard stock fencing to electric systems.
L8/80/15 galvanised wire mesh — approx £54.30 per 50m roll. Posts every 4m, so 12–13 posts per 50m. 1.65m × 75mm posts at £276 per 15 pack.
500m Doblit QuickFence reel kit — £215. Solar energiser (Gallagher S12) — £169. Or all-in-one Gallagher SmartFence 2.0 (100m) — approx £249.
38–50ft from gate to hedge. Diagonal section approx 52ft. Long fence road hedge to barbed wire: 150m / 452ft.
Useful reference figures for the land, whether considering rental agreements with neighbouring farmers or understanding the value of what the meadow can produce.